We first visited Morocco 16 years ago, back when our daughter was a toddler. Fast forward to now — after Christmas, we were craving a break and some fresh inspirations. When our daughter’s university trip brought her back to Morocco, it felt like the perfect chance to join her at the end of her journey and experience the country all over again, this time through very different eyes.
Politics
One thing we notice almost immediately: the King’s portrait is at so many business establishments — from tiny street stalls, elegant riads, to 4/5 star hotels. It doesn’t feel imposed; it reflects a genuine respect the people have for him, during almost every conversation we had with different locals.
Over the past 25 years, he has led with ambition and compassion. The economy has grown and the country has modernised to a much greater extent, but just as importantly, he has championed women’s rights and visibility for marginalised communities — including the Amazigh people and Morocco’s Jewish and Christian populations. This is leadership willing to take difficult decisions and stand by them in the interest of long-term progress. It tangibly improves people’s lives, builds stability and trust — both at home and among foreign investors. Witnessing the country’s transformation in 16 years is a powerful reminder of what effective leadership can achieve when it’s grounded in people, not just power.
One of the biggest changes we saw in Morocco was the large number of women’s argan cooperatives. For years, women produced argan oil but their husbands controlled the income. Today, they are paid directly and fairly through the cooperatives . Even brands like L’Oréal now source from them.
Amazigh People
Once being called “Berber” — a colonial label meaning barbaric — they reclaimed their story and chose their own name: Amazigh, meaning free people. Their handcraftsmanship and vibrant colors are captivating, so much so that they inspired Yves Saint Laurent’s iconic designs.
Adventure in Fez
I hesitated before visiting Fez. As Morocco’s cultural capital and a hub for handicrafts, it promised great experiences — but Facebook travel groups had mixed feedbacks including a few stark warnings. To add further suspense, the owner of our riad sent a similar cautionary message just before our arrival. It almost sounded like a prank and made me laugh.
And yet… Fez completely exceeded expectations. The local guide we found online, a retired linguistics teacher with a wicked sense of humour, made the medina come alive. No shopping commissions, no rushing from store to store — just fascinating stories, culture and history.
In just three hours, it felt like we travelled from the 10th century all the way into the 21st. Educational, fun, and unforgettable — the kind of adventure that reminds you why it’s worth leaning in.
Interesting Facts About Leather
Did you know traditional leather tanning involves soaking it in cow’s urine and pigeon poo? Yep — not glamorous, but extremely effective for softening it. Even a lot of luxury brands use this method. Next time you smell leather, don’t be too shocked 😄
Luckily for us, it poured with rain on the day we visited the world-famous 1,000-year-old Chouara tannery, sparing us from the full aroma.
Here’s another fact: the Fez medina is the world’s biggest medina with over 9,000 streets and alleyways. Google Maps tries, but sometimes even it waves the white flag. It is incredibly tempting to stray off the two main streets without a guide at this UNESCO World Heritage site , but you’ll quickly discover that “getting lost” can feel more like starring in your own real-life escape room… with no exit in sight.
The Sahara Trip
Our daughter completely fell in love with the desert — and the Amazigh tribe people who call it home. So much so that she abandoned her travel group and stayed with them solo, even after friends issued dramatic but well-meaning warnings like, “You’ll end up raped, trafficked, kidnapped….”
She did her homework — checked with the travel group tour guide, listened to other travellers’ feedback, and spent time reflecting. She felt genuinely at peace with her decision (without telling us in advance 😄).
What followed were a few of the best days of her life. She experienced great hospitality, kindness, and respect, and formed genuine friendships along the way. Of course, respect goes both ways. She was learning their language, embraced their traditions, and made sure to dress conservatively and wear a headscarf. For an anthropology student, it was a dream coming true — learning not from a textbook, but from a living community.
She celebrated Amazigh New Year’s Eve with them, feasting and dancing to drumbeats under a sky full of stars, before waking to a magical desert sunrise. The tribe’s chief took her on a drive in his 4×4, sharing stories and showing their traditional way of life. She was surprised to discover that lakes exist even in the desert, and that locals maintain small patches of grassland for camels to graze……
After hearing her stories, we joined her soon after. Horse riding through a stunning date palm farm, swimming in a desert lake, and napping under the palm trees — moments so simple, yet unforgettable……There was no Wi-Fi, no algorithm, just nature, laughter, music, and people who made us feel like we belonged 
. Our daughter summed it up perfectly: “Back at uni, I’m either happy, stressed, or sad — emotions swing from one extreme to another. In the desert, I’m either happy, or I am tired but at peace. The desert and its people have a way of changing you.” Inspired by this trip, she later spoke about Amazigh music on her “Off the Veranda“ program at Cam FM, sharing the experience with listeners.
We bought these leather bags directly from an Amazigh family to honor their craft and support their livelihood, and we named them Sahara Sun. 
Each bag is handmade from sun kissed leather, carefully cut, shaped, and sewn using techniques passed down through generations. Their bight colors also reminded us of Sahara sunrise.
Food
The best tagine of the entire trip? Surprisingly, it didn’t come from a 5-star hotel in Agadir — it was cooked by an Amazigh family in the small and soulful village of Imlil, nestled beneath the snow-capped Atlas Mountains. Fresh, subtle, and brimming with care, it was the perfect meal to end our journey before flying back to the UK.
A very close second? The Moroccan fish stew — unbelievably good. We weren’t the only ones loving it either. We watched three other English tourists refill their plates as enthusiastically as we did 😄
When you step outside the walls of all-inclusive hotels, you’ll see poverty. You might encounter scams, as you would in many other countries. But you’ll also find character and stories – an authenticity that stays with you, an soulfulness that resorts can’t replicate.
A Small Moment
“Entering this door, I hope you continue to surpass yourself.”
We came across this quote on the door of of an 800-year old seminary one sunny afternoon, wandering aimlessly through the streets in Marrakesh. It stopped us in our tracks and lifted our heads. We left Morocco inspired, invigorated, carrying the warmth of Sahara sun on our skin and a small glimpse of something truly unique. 🌟